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802.476.3386 or 800.335.5544
WHAT WE DO FOR YOU
1) Additional draw points or alternative whole house air handling devices may be required.
2) I will determine any problems that may cause a back draft for the heating, hot water heaters and fireplaces with the installation of the mitigation system.
3) I will determine if the concrete floor cracks, plumbing fixtures and the crack between the floor and the concrete wall need to be caulked to provide an airtight seal. This may be part of the project you would be interested in doing. You can save some money.
4) We will review my findings and compile a plan for your mitigation needs. We will determine the best location for the system piping and fan. This may be inside or on the outside of the home.
5) I will provide a copy of my Liability insurance and Errors and omissions insurance before signing a contract.
6) Together we will review the contract to ensure that everyone concerned understands the terms of the contract.
7) I will provide product sheets for all materials to be used to complete this project. Some materials may cause minor respiratory distress. I will provide temporary ventilation.
Note: At the discretion of Breer Radon Systems, estimates may be free of cost
but any building demolition or retesting is an additional cost. This cost will be deducted from the final bill if Breer Radon Systems is contracted for the installation of the radon reduction system.
Today’s the day to install your mitigation system
1) I will provide flooring protection as needed.
2) If contracted I will seal all cracks and joints.
3) I will drill a hole in the floor at the predetermined location.
4) I will dig out a pit under the floor removing about 3 cubic feet of materials.
5) I will anchor a PVC flange to the concrete floor and use polyurethane caulking to seal around the flange.
6) A 4” PVC pipe will be used all the way through the roof.
7) If this pipe penetrates the garage fire envelope a fire collars will be installed on the garage side of the floor, wall or ceiling penetrations.
8) I will install a properly sized radon fan. There will be rubber clamps installed on each side of the fan.
9) A roof boot flange will be installed where the pipe goes through the roof.
10) The fan will be will have an approved cord. This cord will be plugged into a designated circuit outlet. There will be a switch located next to the electrical panel clearly labeled for the radon reduction fan. This switch will be wired directly into the electrical panel and connected to a GFCI protected breaker
11) All wall, floor and ceiling penetrations will be covered with a vinyl collar and sealant.
12) I will vacuum areas affected by the work. You or your agent will do final cleaning.
13) I will supply you with all manufacturers warranty papers and instructions.
14) I will explain what the gauge located on the side of the pipe is for and how it works and what the readings means to you.
15) I will conduct a short term test.
16) At this time you will be required to make payment as previously agreed to in the contract, plus any extras that may have been agreed upon during the course of the installation.
17) As required by EPA Testing Protocols, After 24 hours I will set out the short-term test kit. After 48 hours and before 96 hours I will retrieve the test equipment.
18) After review of the test results we will discuss any further action needed involving the mitigation system.
Call today to schedule you consultation
802.476.3386 or 800.335.5544
DANGERS FROM RADON
Radon is a carcinogenic gas that is hazardous to inhale. Build-up of radon in homes is a health concern and many lung cancer cases are attributed to radon exposure each year. About 12% of lung cancers and more than 20,000 Americans die of radon-related lung cancer each year. The Surgeon General of the United States has issued a Health Advisory warning Americans about the health risk from exposure to radon in indoor air. Dr. Carmona, the Nation’s Chief Physician urged Americans to test their homes to find out how much radon they might be breathing. He also stressed the need to remedy the problem as soon as possible.
You cannot see, smell, or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in your home. When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.
Testing is the only way to find out your home’s radon levels. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon. If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels. Radon has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.
Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time. Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level. Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state.
EPA’s Radon Testing Check List:
- Notify the occupants of the importance of proper testing conditions. Give the occupants written instructions or a copy of this Guide and explain the directions carefully.
- Conduct the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours.
- When doing a short-term test ranging from 2-4 days, it is important to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and during the entire test period.
- When doing a short-term test ranging from 4-7 days, EPA recommends that closed-house conditions be maintained.
- If you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified individual. Insist on an EPA certified tester and ask for his card. Some states issue photo identification (ID) cards; ask to see it. The tester’s ID number, if available, should be included or noted in the test report.
- The test should include method(s) to prevent or detect interference with testing conditions or with the testing device itself.
- If the house has an active radon-reduction system, make sure the vent fan is operating properly. If the fan is not operating properly, have it (or ask to have it) repaired and then test.
If your home has not yet been tested for Radon have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before putting it on the market. You should test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use for living space without renovations.
The radon test result is important information about your home’s radon level. Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol. If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or EPA’s Radon Testing Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified, or registered. Most states can provide you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in the state. In states that don’t regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential. Such programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card, which indicates their qualification(s) and its expiration date. If in doubt, you should check with their credentialing organization. Alternatively, ask the contractor if they’ve successfully completed formal training appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon mitigation.
If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested your home for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done correctly. If so, provide your test results to the buyer.
No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test especially if:
- The Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
- The last test is not recent, e.g., within two years;
- You have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or
- The buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in.
A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.
Radon Myths and Facts
MYTH: Scientists are not sure that radon really is a problem.
FACT: Although some scientists dispute the precise number of deaths due to radon, all the major health organizations (like the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the American Lung Association and the American Medical Association) agree with estimates that radon causes thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths every year. This is especially true among smokers, since the risk to smokers is much greater than to non-smokers.
MYTH: Radon testing is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.
FACT: Radon testing is easy and inexpensive.
MYTH: Radon testing devices are not reliable and are difficult to find.
FACT: Reliable testing devices are available from qualified radon testers and companies.
MYTH: Homes with radon problems can’t be fixed.
FACT: There are simple solutions to radon problems in homes. Hundreds of thousands of homeowners have already fixed radon problems in their homes. Radon levels can be readily lowered for $800 to $2,500 (with an average cost of $1,200)..
MYTH: Radon affects only certain kinds of homes.
FACT: House construction can affect radon levels. However, radon can be a problem in homes of all types: old homes, new homes, drafty homes, insulated homes, homes with basements, and homes without basements. Local geology, construction materials, and how the home was built are among the factors that can affect radon levels in homes.
MYTH: Radon is only a problem in certain parts of the country.
FACT: High radon levels have been found in every state. Radon problems do vary from area to area, but the only way to know your radon level is to test.
MYTH: A neighbor’s test result is a good indication of whether your home has a problem.
FACT: It’s not. Radon levels can vary greatly from home to home. The only way to know if your home has a radon problem is to test it.
MYTH: It’s difficult to sell homes where radon problems have been discovered.
FACT: Where radon problems have been fixed, home sales have not been blocked or frustrated. The added protection is some times a good selling point.
MYTH: I’ve lived in my home for so long, it doesn’t make sense to take action now.
FACT: You will reduce your risk of lung cancer when you reduce radon levels, even if you’ve lived with a radon problem for a long time.
MYTH: Short-term tests can’t be used for making a decision about whether to fix your home.
FACT: A short-term test, followed by a second short-term test* can be used to decide whether to fix your home. However, the closer the average of your two short-term tests is to 4 pCi/L, the less certain you can be about whether your year-round average is above or below that level. Keep in mind that radon levels below 4 pCi/L still pose some risk. Radon levels can be reduced in most homes to 2 pCi/L or below.